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Tokyo photojournalist: photos and features from Japan. (50 unread)

  • Nikon 85mm f/2

    Posted: May 13, 2012, 4:00 am by tony


    An 85mm portrait lens has been the obvious gap in my Nikon prime kit-bag for quite a while.

     

    This one came mail-order from Fukushima (!) for 13,000 yen. It’s manual focus, but compare the price to the 85mm f/1.4 (69,800 yen used) or the 85mm f/1.8 (29,800 yen). Bargain.

    Seems there may be some variation in quality between the lenses out there, but look at the photos below. Mine is as sharp as any Nikon lens I have. The colours and bokeh are gorgeous. The lens is smaller than both the other 85mm lens, and even the 50mm. (Looks like Ken Rockwell got a good one too, if you want more details).

    To date, I’ve used my workhorse 24-70 f/2.8 zoom for environmental portraits or a 50mm f/1.4 for up-close and bokeh. But time to practice my manual focus for a portrait shoot with this beauty.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Cherry blossom + Parkour

    Posted: April 29, 2012, 4:00 am by tony


    This is beginning to turn into a proper photo project. (Previous shoot here).

    More Tokyo Parkour, this time with a Japanese flavour, early morning in Ueno park in the middle of the cherry-blossom season. (It was beautiful but very cold).

    I used a 16mm manual focus fisheye on my D700. Not easy to find the right angle with that lens. Some of the shots had me flat on my back.

    Night-time Parkour shoot next I reckon.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • A FabLabulous idea

    Posted: April 15, 2012, 4:00 am by tony


    Wouldn’t it be great to make household items just by downloading instructions from the internet and turning on a 3D printer?

    The digital fabrication revolution started at MIT in the US a few years ago and last spring it came to Japan. I was really lucky to be one of the first people to visit FabLab Kamakura. I even got a FabLab made holder for my reporter’s notebook!

    As a photo job, the main challenge was the somewhat small and static location. ’Fabmaster’ Hiroya Tanaka set up in an old sake storehouse. Very beautiful, but very dark and pokey.

    The FabLab concept has all sorts of benefits. It’s eco-friendly because it removes the need for distribution. Its creative because you can make anything if you have the right design and the right machine. And it’s fun.

    Tanaka-san and others are giving FabLab a bit of a Japanese twist. He told me they are cooperating linking up with some of the many traditional artisans based in Kamakura.

    The FabLab concept reminds me a bit of the mingei movement actually. (The Mingei museum in Komaba is one of my favourite spots in Tokyo).

    Quite a few people believe that digital fabrication will be a transformative technology – on a par with the invention of electricity or the internet. I wonder . . .

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Tokyo playground

    Posted: April 2, 2012, 3:00 am by tony


    This was a fantastic commmision. How much more photogenic can you get than people doing acrobatics in the middle of the city?

    The principle behind Parkour (AKA freerunning) is pretty simple – the quickest, most natural way from moving from A to B. There are a couple of Parkour groups in Tokyo, but it’s not that popular here.  According to Sullivan (in the night shots below) the number of Tokyo ’traceurs’ is in the low tens.

    I knew almost nothing about Parkour before this story so I was surprised to learn it’s influenced by Western military training methods, Eastern martial arts, and even the films of Jackie Chan. Interestingly, there aren’t any Parkour competitions. It’s more a discipline than a sport – about training your body and mind to overcome all sorts of obstacles.

    I called this blog (and my story) Tokyo playground. Parkour started as kids testing their athleticism in the playground. Its philosophy is to make a playground of the whole city. Quite a radical idea when you think about it. Tokyo is so grey and crowded. In a way, it’s one of the most alienating cities in the world. Good to see it from a completely new perspective.

    Don’t suppose I’ll be doing backflips on the train platform any time soon though.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Nothing much by the sea

    Posted: February 17, 2012, 9:21 am by tony


    December 31st 2011. A near deserted beach in Chiba prefecture.

    Iron seagulls. Broken shells. Coloured glass tumbled smooth by the sea. Sunlight on peeling sky blue paint.

    In December Japan has ’forget the year parties’. Change the mind’s tatami, throw away yellowed memories.

    Nothing much is happening here.

    Once, I used to psyche myself up to take photos. These days I try to calm down a little.

    Photojournalism is news. Happenings, or happened.

    Not much in these photos. I’m not sure what makes them worth sharing.

    Nothing much.

    A new year.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Give it some stick

    Posted: February 5, 2012, 2:25 am by tony


    My first shot at photos of kendo, at the All Japan Kendo Championship last December. The Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Japan ran them in their January issue.

    I did Kendo for a few years when I first came to Japan, so this shoot brought back a few memories.

    As usual, the annual event was held at the Budokan in Tokyo (it’s easy to forget that the Budokan was built to host martial arts tournaments, not just rock concerts). It’s open to the public, but I got my press pass and a competitor’s eye view from some friends at the excellent Kendo World magazine.

    I think that the grimacing competitor in the main photo had just lost. It looks like a mixture of pain, frustration and exhaustion. The tournament is a long, gruelling day for everyone – competitors, judges and photographers alike.

    I had a fairly pained expression myself after several hours sitting on a cold gymnasium floor waiting for the one winning strike in each bout.

    I took a few hundred photos, mostly of ’zanshin’, the kendo name for the moment after a strike. It’s not easy to catch the decisive moment in kendo.

    Perhaps video is the answer? There’s youtube video of the end of the last bout after the photos. It’s pretty dramatic.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Pray for Japan

    Posted: January 11, 2012, 5:56 am by tony


    Each January crowds of people visit Meiji Jingu shrine in Tokyo for “hatsumode” - first prayers of the year. I took these portraits right in front of the main shrine. Some people bent their heads for seconds, some for minutes. I was hard not to imagine what people were praying for. Perhaps for a better year in 2012?

    This is about as intimate (you might say voyeuristic) set of street photos as I have tried. I used a 70-200 zoom to get in as close as possible. I was only standing a couple of meters away for most of the photos but the crowds made it very easy to go unnoticed.

    Incidentally, given the huge number of visitors, I was expecting to have to queue for ages to get to the shrine. And I wasn’t even sure if I’d be able to stay at the front long enough to take photos. In the event, I was at the front almost immediately and was able to do my thing without any bother at all. Thanks Tokyo police.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Daruma-rama

    Posted: January 2, 2012, 3:00 am by tony


    Wishing everyone a happy and prosperous 2012!

    (From last year’s Daruma Fair at Jindaiji temple in Chofu near Tokyo)

    http://www.jindaiji.or.jp/event/darumaichi.php

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • The Chiba Jeebies

    Posted: December 27, 2011, 9:31 am by tony


    Wandering around the wilds of Chiba prefecture a couple of months ago.

    By the time I took the last photo I was hopelessly lost and eventually someone had to come and find me.

    My mobile phone battery had run out and,  as I discovered, there aren’t many public telephones in the Japanese countryside. Apologies to my father-in-law

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Trip to the top of the Tokyo Sky Tree

    Posted: November 18, 2011, 3:00 am by tony


    The Tokyo Sky Tree isn’t scheduled to open to the public until next year but the good people at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club organised a press tour late last month. Here’s a story I did for the press club magazine.

    It was a good trip, though the weather was terrible; quite a view, even on a very dull day. Just lucky I don’t have vertigo. The only time I got a bit nervous was when I was pressing my camera against the glass and looking down. Suddenly became aware of the almost 400m drop!

    I have to admit to being a little skeptical about these super-tall towers and buildings. One Tokyo Tower is enough for me, although I’ve no doubt this will be incredibly popular with Japanese visitors, and probably foreign tourists too.

     

    “The tallest self-supporting tower in the world, the 634m high Tokyo Sky Tree is scheduled to open in February 2012. On October 30th, the observatory deck of the tower, 350m up, was opened to overseas journalists for the first time. The tower is still under construction.

    The structure is almost twice the height of the Eiffel tower and gives spectacular views over Tokyo. As well as serving as a broadcasting mast, it is set to become a major tourist attraction. It is a short train journey from Tokyo station and close to the historic Asakusa temple district.

    The tower employs the latest architectural technology to protect it both from earthquakes and high winds. A cylindrical concrete core is structurally separate from the tower itself and acts as a counterweight to reduce the effect of tremors. It is an adaptation of the central column of traditional Japanese architecture, known as a shimbashira.

    Work on the tower was well underway at the time of the March 2011 earthquake but the tower suffered no damage and no workers were injured.

    The tower is made from wide-bore high strength steel pipes. They were made at plants around Japan in sections weighing up to 30 tons. The largest sections at the foot of the tower are 2.3m in diameter.

    As well as two observation decks (350m and 450m) shops and restaurants in the tower itself, the surrounding development will house offices, museums and academic institutions.”

    Tokyo photojournalist on Facebook 
     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Moving on

    Posted: October 31, 2011, 4:33 pm by tony


    My time as editor of EURObiZ Japan came to an end on Friday. But here’s my swansong, some portraits of my talented colleagues at Paradigm.

    Thanks for a fantastic two years (and for letting me take your photographs)!

    (Tokyo photojournalist on Facebook)

     

    David

     

    Paddy

     

    Naoko

     

    Christophe

     

    Richard

     

    Jay

     

    Helene

     

    Yumi

     

    Vickie (and Chuck)

     

    Davide

  • Tearsheets

    Posted: October 31, 2011, 3:42 pm by tony
    Tearsheets
  • Some more corporate portraits

    Posted: October 7, 2011, 4:06 pm by tony


    A last selection from the corporate portraits I’ve been doing for EURObiZ Japan.

    With these I always try to include something from the person’s work in the photo. Some people/occupations can be harder than others. But I always do my best to make them look relaxed, and happy with their jobs. I get the occasional great surprise. Joakim Kautto at the bottom was singing me Beatles songs on that guitar specially adapted for the elderly.

    Charles McJilton of Second Harvest Japan is the odd one out in this set. When I took his photo a few days after the March 11 earthquake and tsunami I wasn’t planning to use it in the series. But we realised that it would work perfectly in the special issue on the disaster.

    (Tokyo photojournalist on Facebook)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Brrrrr

    Posted: August 29, 2011, 11:05 am by tony


    Here’s one way to cool down a little during the Tokyo summer . . .

    Back in 2008 I took part in a press tour to the Shiretoko peninsula way up on the northeast tip of Hokkaido. It was a fantastic trip, including a visit out to the ice-flows on an ice-breaker.

    Sadly, global warming is threatening Shiretoko’s tourist industry as each year the ice flow shrinks.

    (Tokyo photojournalist on Facebook)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Tsukiji portraits

    Posted: August 24, 2011, 9:26 am by tony


    Not only is Tsukiji fish market one of best places in Tokyo to visit, its one of the most photogenic too.

    A few years ago I did a small project photographing people who work in the market. I have around 100 impromptu portraits.

    Usually, I just approached people explained what I was doing, asked if I could take their photo, took it as quickly as I could, then said thanks and left.

    (Tokyo photojournalist on Facebook)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Sento painter

    Posted: August 22, 2011, 12:12 pm by tony


    Sento bathhouse painter Toshimitsu Hayakawa was one of the most remarkable people I’ve photographed. Sadly, he passed away in 2009, only a couple of years after I took these photographs.

    One of the two last sento bathhouse painters in Tokyo, he was in his seventies and still working.

    He was a modest and kind man who lived a tough life, but did he job with care and dignity. He had a lot to teach.

    (Tokyo photojournalist on Facebook)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Children’s Day in Ishinomaki

    Posted: August 14, 2011, 5:24 pm by tony


    This is the last of the sets of photos I took up in tsumnami-devastated Ishinomaki over Golden Week.

    The morning of 5 May I drove from Sendai to Ishinomaki with rakugo artist Dianne Orrett and a couple of her Chindon’ya friends. We spent the day together as they performed at the Ishinomaki Mangattan and a local shrine festival.

    This is just one of many trips Diane has made up to the earthquake zone.

    (Tokyo photojournalist on Facebook)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Wasabi wonder

    Posted: July 11, 2011, 3:54 am by tony


    Some photos from a little while ago that I’ve finally got round to posting (that happens a lot!)

    This is the owner of Marutou wasabi farm. If you are ever near the tip of the Izu peninsula, pay him a visit. He lives in one of the most beautiful Japanese villages I’ve ever seen.

    (Tokyo photojournalist on Facebook)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Tokyo Sinfonia in Tohoku

    Posted: July 8, 2011, 4:37 pm by tony


    This is another story from Golden week. I travelled up to the disaster zone with the Tokyo Sinfonia who played several concerts in the refugee centers.

    This was another privileged experience. Two months after the quake, the authorities were reluctant to let anyone into the centers – least of all photographers.

    But it was moving to hear the performances – and even more moving to see the reaction of the audiences.

    (Tokyo Photojournalist on Facebook)

    From the June issue of the magazine of the Foreign Correspondents’ Club of Japan

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Ishinomaki during Golden Week

    Posted: July 2, 2011, 5:24 pm by tony


    These photos were taken just under two months after the March 11th earthquake and tsunami.

    I was up in Ishinomaki during the Golden Week holidays to do a story for the magazine on a story for the magazine I edit.

    To be honest, I had my doubts about whether I should post these, or even if I should have actually taken them. So many photographers have been up to Tohoku and so many photos published. Another set seems redundant, even voyeuristic.

    But in the end I gave in to my own urge to record what I’d seem. I used flash to give some of the photos a slight edge of unreality. I still cannot quite believe what I saw.

    (Tokyo Photojournalist on Facebook)

     

     

     

  • Chiba surfing

    Posted: June 17, 2011, 6:37 am by tony

    Surf’s up.

    Recently had  chance to visit a surfing “Mecca” in Chiba with my brother-in-law.

    Beats Sunday morning pushing a trolley around Itoyokado. Time to invest in one of these?

    (Tokyo Photojournalist on Facebook)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Talking Tokyo photojournalist

    Posted: June 14, 2011, 4:27 pm by tony

    Earlier this year I was interviewed by an organisation called The Shpilman Institute for Photography. To be quite honest, I don’t know much about them, but the questions were fun and I seem to be among in good company amongst the other interviewees on the blog. I’m re-posting the interview here with permission.

    Just in case anyone wanted to know a little more about me and why I spend time on this job, hobby and obsession that is photography.

    Tony

     

    What was the first image you ever took?

    About the age of seven or eight I was given a little plastic camera that took 110 film. I can’t remember the first photo I took, but it was probably of my younger brother. He got a camera too.

    I can tell you of the first photos I sold – they were taken while walking a 750-mile  Buddhist pilgrimage on the Japanese island of Shikoku.

    A Flood Prevention Civil Engineering Project, Tokyo

    Why did you want to become a photographer?

    I consider myself a photojournalist more than a photographer, and I started off as a reporter.

    The fantastic thing about taking photos as well as writing, though, is that you actually have to log off and leave the office, visit places and meet people. That’s almost a luxury for many journalists these days.

    I don’t have any pretensions towards being an artist. I just want to go and see more and more, and to share what I see.

    Sumo Training Session

    What is the most difficult thing for a photographer in this day and age? What do you hate the most?

    For photojournalists – making a living. I am lucky that I have a job editing a magazine and the opportunity to take photos for it too.

    I hate the fact that very very few photojournalists can find publications offering the remuneration they need to really pursue a story.

    I hate sterile arguments about equipment. Nikon or Canon? It’s like arguing over whether you should type your novel in Arial or Times New Roman.

    Producing the Largest Firework in the World

    What inspires you?

    Unashamed nosiness. Being a photojournalist is the perfect excuse to go anywhere and meet anyone. I’ve photographed arctic ice flows, Kobe beef cows and phallic festivals. I’ve met bath-house mural painters, wasabi farmers and rookie sumo wrestlers.

    I think every story I have ever written or photographed has added something to my life. Life not as a photojournalist for me would be sad and drab.

    What kind of music do you listen to when you work on your computer?

    I don’t listen to music while I’m using the computer; if I am concentrating on more than one thing at a time, I’m not concentrating. But my iPod is a lifesaver on the Japanese commuter trains.

    My station is on the busiest line in Tokyo If I didn’t tune out I’d go insane within a couple of stops.

    There’s so much music. How about Nega (Photograph Blues) by Gilberto Gill?

    Taking Video of the Cherry Blossom, Ueno Park, Tokyo, Japan, April 3, 2010

    What was the last photography book you’ve read?

    I just re-read Eikoh Hosoe: Aperture Masters of Photography.

    A year ago I was privileged to organize an exhibition of Hosoe’s photos at the Japan Foreign Correspondent’s Club and the book was a gift.

    Who are your photography idols?

    Eikoh Hosoe again. I am in awe of the passion and energy of his work. We showed some of his photographs of the Japanese novelist Yukio Mishima, who committed seppuku ritual-suicide in 1970.

    Hosoe captured Mishima’s sinister theatricality perfectly. The photos are technically superb and still disturbing to look at, decades later.

    What can we find on your bookmarks?

    I am a fan of the Burn blog and Japan Exposures. Other than that I monitor a huge range of blogs and news sites on Japan in English and Japanese.

    I’m always on the lookout for weird and photogenic stories relatively unreported by English-language media. There are plenty.

    Tokyo Commuters

    What are you working on now?

    Japanese food and drink. I’ve traveled all over Japan photographing farmers and food producers. They face a desperate future as the Japanese countryside is badly depopulated and the average age of farmers is something like 65. But they produce ingredients for the finest cuisine in the world with awesome dedication.

    I’m still just nibbling at the edges of Japanese food culture. It would take many lifetimes to understand and enjoy it all.

    Sharpening a tuna knife at Tsukiji

  • Drinking Japan

    Posted: May 12, 2011, 5:38 pm by tony

    I had a lovely surprise today. A while ago I sent my friend Chris Bunting some photos for a book he was working on. Well, the book is out – and what a fantastic book it is too.

    My photos are the ones of the sake brewery (not the cover photo, the sake casks or the B&W photo – although funnily enough the brilliant drinking game photo is actually from an exhibition by Hans Brinckmann I organised a while back).

    Chris is the author of  Nonjatta, the definitive Japanese whisky blog, a great writer and – going on the evidence of this book – a world class barfly. This comprehensive guide to everything alcoholic in Japan is going to be a classic I’m sure. Proud to be part of it. Kampai!

    You can buy the book here and it has it’s own website too: drinkingjapan.com.

     

     

     

     

     

  • Cherry blossom 2011

    Posted: April 19, 2011, 5:25 pm by tony

    Cherry blossom.

    It’s a challenge to find a new way to shoot sakura any year, but this year was particularly difficult.

    (These were taken using a Takumar 55mm lens on a Nikon D700)

    (Tokyo Photojournalist on Facebook)

  • 日本語

    Posted: April 9, 2011, 3:54 am by tony
    日本語
  • One week later

    Posted: March 19, 2011, 5:43 pm by tony

    Even at a time like this, people need music. Perhaps, at a time like this,  they need it more than ever.

    On Tuesday I received this email from Robert Ryker, Music Director of the Tokyo Sinfonia. It was about a concert that some time ago we’d arranged I’d photograph – I was surprised to hear that the concert was still going ahead:

    To a few musical friends,

    Japan is facing serious upheavals in the lives of the people. Even in Tokyo, we are enduring disruptions to transportation, rolling blackouts in electric power, shortages of foodstuffs for daily consumption, and the eerie feeling that possible meltdowns in Japan’s nuclear powerplants may further exacerbate the national disaster.

    Of course I have considered carefully what we should do. The Tokyo Sinfonia members and I are professional musicians — what we do is make music. So Monday, as best we could, that’s what we did, rehearsing for Friday’s concert, a Tchaikovsky Serenade.

    Five of our players could not get there because their trains were not running. I rehearsed with those who came. We had to stop at three as the electric power was then about to be cut off. We skipped lunch and played straight through without a break. No one complained. We just did what we do.

    We plan to perform this Friday, of course. Our concert is not a social event; it is an evening of solace. People need to keep balance in their lives. So, God willing, we’ll be there to perform for those who are there.

    We’ll dedicate the concert to the victims of the disaster. We’ll put a donation box in the lobby. We’ll add the income from CD sales to the donations. And, most appropriately, the third movement of Tchaikovsky’s Mozartiana is the awesomely beautiful Preghiera (prayer).

    It’s our way of helping. Please be with us, if you can, Friday evening at Oji Hall.

    Robert Ryker

    I’m grateful to have been able to attend a truly special and moving event, the only concert to take place in the venue this week. It was seven days and just a few hours after the earthquake.

    Most of these photos are from the rehearsal immediately beforehand. The shots from above were taken during the performance from the balcony of the hall. Up there I could feel small aftershocks throughout.

    Japan Red Cross Google’s crisis response page

    (Tokyo Photojournalist on Facebook)

  • Ginza darkly

    Posted: March 17, 2011, 5:44 pm by tony

    Japan is a dark place in more ways than one at the moment. The terrible suffering in north Japan is constantly on everyone’s minds, as is the nuclear power station crisis in Fukushima. Meanwhile, homes and businesses are trying to save as much electricity as possible.

    Ginza is normally one of the busiest brightest parts of Tokyo. Last night it was much darker and quieter than usual. Despite the calm, there’s a palpable sense of foreboding.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Leaving Tokyo

    Posted: March 16, 2011, 2:59 pm by tony

    The atmosphere is Tokyo right now is hard to describe: a mixture of horror, weariness and unease. Like everyone else here I’ve been glued to the TV and internet for days.

    Yesterday morning was the low point so far for me. When the media started reporting on rising radiation at the Fukushima plant I agreed with my wife that she and our two children should travel to stay with the grandparents in west Japan. Tokyo is a stressful place right now.

    I wasn’t the person with that idea and Tokyo station was crowded with families so I stayed there a while to take these photos.

    The poor children in north Japan. I just read this heartrending story by my colleague Julian Ryall.

     

  • Stranded by the earthquake

    Posted: March 11, 2011, 6:24 pm by tony

    I am stuck in my Tokyo office tonight. All the trains have stopped.

    I went down to Shinagawa station to see what was happening and take some photos. Glad I have a heated office to sleep in and a blanket at least.

    UPDATE: March 12th 10.30am

    Finally got home at 5am this morning: car ride from a friend, underground, short walk across Kita-ku, a taxi, bed. The family are all fine. Will add some photos to this post.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Tokyo marathon 2011

    Posted: March 5, 2011, 3:35 pm by tony

    I took about two hundred portraits of runners at the Tokyo Marathon last Sunday, 100 at the start and 100 at the finish – all with my trusty nifty-fifty. I had a press pass courtesy of EURObiZ Japan. They’ll be a photo story in the magazine soon.

    I wanted to show the excitement of the start line and the exhaustion of the finish line. Not sure I quite managed to do that. The start photos were fine, but as soon as I pointed a camera at anyone at the finish they broke into a huge smile. They were giving me the elation rather than the exhaustion.

    Still, these are some of my favourites. (The first guy was dressed as a bunch of grapes)

    START…

     

    FINISH…

     

     

  • Food for thought

    Posted: February 26, 2011, 3:29 pm by tony

    I’ve had a few stories in the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Japan magazine before now, but this is the first time on the cover.

    A project close to my heart too. As I wrote in the text (see below) to go with these portraits, I have enormous respect for the people producing Japan’s fantastic food and drink. They live their work in a way that we Tokyo strap-hangers find hard to truly understand. And they face a very uncertain future.

    I wonder what Sugiura-san will think about his family being on the cover of this magazine? I’m going to send him a copy.

     

     

     

     

    Food for thought

    The quickest way to a country’s heart, this journalist reckons, is through its stomach. The stories on Japanese food I’ve covered over the years have been a fabulous opportunity. I’ve visited parts of Japan I never knew existed and sampled some occasionally strange, often spellbinding, food.

    I’ve met some remarkable people: a Shizuoka wasabi farmer (tough as a boot after years bent double in freezing mountain steams); a Tokyo fruit-vinegar ‘sommelier’ (dapper and fantastically camp); a Kobe-beef restaurateur (bull-necked and brash); a Tsukiji kamaboko fishcake factory owner (an extraordinary businessman; you’d have to be to think of selling the stuff); a Chiba sake brewer (who decided on a new sake range after seeing a UFO floating over the shrine behind his brewery) – to name just a few.

    They all impressed me with their sincerity and dedication. The also granted me glimpses of the profound crisis facing the countryside and the awesome challenge Japan will have simply to sustain current food production, never mind modernize it.

    The plight of the countryside is as desperate – and obdurately ignored – as any of the many facing Japan. As the head of the Keidanren told an FCCJ presser in January, well over half of Japan’s farmers are past retirement age. The average farm is tiny and hopelessly inefficient. Even if Japanese agriculture became profitable who would work the rice paddies? In a few years Japan may not have much agriculture at all.

    My head tells me that Japan’s attempts to protect its rural economy are failing. I’ve seen the ghost towns and the fallow fields. I’ve spoken to the farmers who complain that almost every young person with any ability or ambition takes the first train to the city at the age of 20.

    But my – by now almost Japanese – gut argues something different. Belatedly, I’ve come to understand the visceral importance of food here. Coming from England – a country with effectively no native high cuisine – it took me a while to comprehend how a people could actually define themselves by their food (and by extension the place where is made). I suspect that Japanese people will never swallow arguments of economic efficiency when food is involved.

    The farmers themselves haven’t given up. I’ve met many second, third generation presidents of tiny food companies in far corners of Japan. They have told me about their involvement in “rural revitalization” projects (read, heroic struggles against the slow death of their hometowns). I’ve met few young ex-urbanites who swapped a life of convenience, if not always comfort, for exhausting farm-work for low pay in towns where the most significant social events are funerals.

    But I still envy them for their lives and work. They don’t just make food, although they do that exceptionally well, many are the guardians of centuries old traditions. The fruit of their labours is appreciated all over Japan, and increasingly abroad. They are one of the few hopes for the Japanese countryside; they provide employment and encourage tourism; increasingly many spearhead local environmental efforts.

    An aged Japan economy could well encounter an unpalatable future. But whatever happens, I’ve no doubt that Japanese people will keep eating the best food in the world. I’m privileged to have met and photographed some of the people producing it.

    They say that the young should eat to live, the middle-aged eat and live, and the old live to eat. Perhaps that applies to nations too?

    Tony McNicol is editor of EURObiZ Japan, the magazine of the European Chamber of Commerce in Japan.

     

     

     

     

  • Sado jizo shrine

    Posted: February 13, 2011, 3:56 pm by tony

    These photos are from a trip to the island of Sado in 2009, when I spent a couple of days driving around looking for places and people to feature in the travel story I was writing.

    I found this shrine a short drive up into the hills. It is named “Nashinoki Jizo” after the tens of thousands of jizo statues in its grounds. Jizo is the Japanese name for the Buddhist Kstigarbha – statues of the deity are very common in Japan. There are even small jizo shrines on many residential streets in Tokyo.

    Jizo is the guardian of children, particularly sick children, and in recent decades has been worshiped as the protector of stillborn, miscarried or aborted babies.

    The Legend of the Humming of the Sai-no-Kawara, by Lafcadio Hearn (Courtesy of Wikipedia)

    But lo! the teacher Jizô appears, All gently he comes, and says to the weeping infants: “Be not afraid, dears! be never fearful! Poor little souls, your lives were brief indeed! Too soon you were forced to make the weary journey to the Meido, The long journey to the region of the dead! Trust to me! I am your father and mother in the Meido, Father of all children in the region of the dead.” And he folds the skirt of his shining robe about them; So graciously takes he pity on the infants. To those who cannot walk he stretches forth his strong shakujô, And he pets the little ones, caresses them, takes them to his loving bosom. So graciously he takes pity on the infants. Namo Jizo Bosatsu!

    Men and women come from far away to dedicate jizo at this shrine. The statues they leave behind are made from stones taken from the sea. Over the decades many of them have been worn completely smooth again or have sunk down into the earth.

  • Pied Piper

    Posted: February 5, 2011, 3:52 pm by tony

    Noto town in Kanazawa prefecture has lost two thirds of its residents since the 1970s, its sons and daughters leaving for jobs in the city. Remaining behind are silence, empty streets, pork barrel civic projects, pachinko parlours, the loyal, and the old.

    This is a story repeated in rural areas all over Japan. And yet, somehow, the aging society is described as a coming crisis.

  • Waiting for the flood

    Posted: January 30, 2011, 3:48 pm by tony

    Here’s an unlikely Tokyo tourist attraction, definitely in the category of places I would NEVER have gone if I wasn’t a journalist.

    Apparently, this is the largest flood protection civil engineering project in the world. It is open to the public and the tours are free, but you need to speak some Japanese. I recommend booking well in advance – and checking the weather forecast!

    Also, if you want to take photos, you’d better be quick. The pre-tour lecture takes a good 30 minutes (include compulsory stretching) – and then you get only 10 minutes in the cavern itself.

    This is the text from the photo story I did recently for EURObiZ Japan:

    The Parthenon of Saitama

    Deep in the Tokyo suburbs, behind a grey door in an empty field, and down a long narrow staircase, is a 177m by 78m cavern. Its 18m-high ceiling is supported by fifty-nine 500 ton pillars. Designed to help channel rainwater safely into the Edo river and help protect the flood-prone Naka basin, the cavern has been dubbed Saitama Prefecture’s Parthenon.

    The project’s official name – the Water Discharge Tunnel on The Outskirts of the Metropolitan Area – is less charismatic. But the facility is a breathtaking feat of Japanese civil engineering. As well as the cavern, it includes five underground water storage tanks joined by 6.3km of tunnel, each large enough to house the Statue of Liberty. The system’s four pumps are driven by modified aircraft turbine engines with enough power to drain a 25m swimming pool every second.

    Since its completion in 2002 the system has been used more than 60 times, saving countless residents from injury and thousands of homes from destruction.


  • work place 2

    Posted: December 9, 2010, 3:59 pm by tony

    The magazine I edit, EURObiZ Japan, has been running a monthly column on Europeans working in Tokyo, and I’ve been taking the photos. These are the six most recent portraits. (The first five are here.)

    This time there are Europeans working in: a glass company, a designer furniture company, advertising, Italian food imports, wine glasses and iPad applications. Lots of fun to shoot.

  • The sick rose

    Posted: October 31, 2010, 4:00 pm by tony

    O Rose thou art sick.
    The invisible worm,
    That flies in the night
    In the howling storm:

    Has found out thy bed
    Of crimson joy:
    And his dark secret love
    Does thy life destroy.

    William Blake



  • School of hard knocks

    Posted: October 20, 2010, 5:10 pm by tony

    I had a three page photo story in this month’s No. 1 Shimbun, the magazine of the Foreign Correspondent’s Club in Tokyo. Here it is below.

    A little while ago I had the privilege to meet and photograph Doreen Simmons, the incredible 78-year-old sumo expert and commentator on NHK. The job was for one of the columns in the magazine I edit, EURObiZ Japan.

    The obvious thing to do was photograph her with sumo wrestlers, but the deal was that I had to sit through the practice first. Good job I did. These were all taken from my cushion at the edge of the room with a 70-200 lens.

    (The pictures of Doreen are at the bottom of this post)

    These are some other shots from the training session.

    And a couple of shots Doreen Simmons. After the two hour practice I only got about five minutes for the portrait. Luckily, I knew pretty much exactly what I wanted.


  • Sun and sake

    Posted: October 12, 2010, 5:22 pm by tony

    The biennial festival near our house has become something of a project for me. I helped carry the shrine for the third time this year and took a few portraits while resting my bruised shoulders.

    These were all shot with a 50mm lens at f2.0 on D200 body. The sensor size on the D200 makes the lens close to a standard portrait, but still fairly unobtrusive. (The D200 is my backup camera – in case I trip and get trampled under the shrine.)

    The other essential kit is sun and sake.

  • Toyohashi

    Posted: September 11, 2010, 6:07 pm by tony

    Toyohashi city is where I landed in Japan and lived for a few years before coming to Tokyo.

    It’s not far from Nagoya, not far from the mountains, not far from the sea, not doing very well in the recession. It was a great place to live when I was there – probably still is.

    I went back for a couple of days recently to visit a few friends and spent and afternoon wandering round the city center with my camera.

  • Festival of the dead

    Posted: August 21, 2010, 4:34 am by tony

    It’s been a while since my late post, and it’s even longer since I took these photos last summer. Every August there’s a small obon celebration under the bullet train tracks near our house. Obon is the festival of the dead when Japanese honour their ancestors. A local taiko drumming group comes to our festival.

    This isn’t the first time I’ve photographed the celebration although it’s the first time I’ve recorded sound. Please make sure you have can hear the soundtrack.

    We live in an unremarkable and by no means affluent part of Tokyo, but there’s a great sense of community. One village in a city of 13 million people.

  • work place

    Posted: June 17, 2010, 4:28 pm by tony

    The magazine I edit, EURObiZ Japan, has been running a monthly column on Europeans working in Tokyo, and I’ve been taking the photos. These are the first five portraits.

    There’s a lady who sells foie gras, two architects, a pattisier, a man who imports Dutch goods and a scuba diving instructor. (Thanks to our designer Paddy for the terrific photo selection and layouts)

    The challenge each time is to find way to show the job in a single frame. Not sure I succeeded every time – but I’m trying. I usually shoot by myself with one or two off camera strobes and an umbrella.

    I’ll post the next five or six later this year!

  • Temple of the golden pavilion

    Posted: June 13, 2010, 3:16 pm by tony

    Is this the most photographed temple in Japan?

    I was down in Kyoto last week meeting a Danish tea master (more on that one day) and staying at a Zen Buddhist temple for a night (no photos!).

    In between the two I had a morning to spare so what to do? My first thought was to find a nice quiet temple among the thousands, but in the end I decided to head for Kinkakuji, temple of the golden pavilion, and the ultimate Kyoto tourist trap. The challenge I set myself was to avoid the usual cliches. (In fact, there’s only one place to take a ‘postcard’ shot of Kinkakuji. No doubt it was designed that way, albeit not for photography)

    This was a scorching spring day so the temple was even busier than usual. I took my shots and hot-footed it out of there.

  • Nifty-fifty Houston

    Posted: May 28, 2010, 5:28 pm by tony

    Sixteen shots of Houston – 50mm wide-open.

    (Set myself a challenge of the simplest camera setting I could think of.)

    Most of these shots were taken downtown near my hotel.

  • the Houston flower man

    Posted: May 24, 2010, 12:47 pm by tony

    When I was in Houston, my friend Katherine took me to see a very special person. The first photo explains.

    To say thank you for letting me take these pics, last week I posted a few photos and a couple of Anpanman toys to Houston. There is a little bit of Tokyo in Mr Turner’s garden now.

  • wedding photos

    Posted: May 23, 2010, 11:59 am by tony

    This was a bit of a departure for me. My friends Katherine and Gary were married in Houston earlier this month I and flew over to give them their wedding present – photos of the day!

    I’d never shot a proper wedding before, and I think I was at least as nervous as the bride and groom. But, luckily, it all couldn’t have been better. I was photographing good friends, in a gorgeous setting, on a gorgeous day with perfect light. It was a privilege to be able to record the occasion.

    Since formal portraits aren’t really my thing I tried for a photojournalist style. As usual, that meant shooting anything and everything. I started with the preparations before the wedding, the rehearsal, the rehearsal party, getting ready on the day, the ceremony itself, and finally the reception party.

    Here’s a selection. The last two photos are of Katherine’s parents and Gary’s parents.


  • Mega-church

    Posted: May 4, 2010, 1:22 am by tony

    I am in Houston Texas this week to photograph my friends’ wedding.

    Lakewood Church, says Wikipedia, is the largest congregation in the US – what they call a mega-church. The services are held in a converted basketball station that seats about 16,000  people.

    I attended to the 11am service. Seeing as my last visit to Sunday church was probably with the boy scouts,this was quite an experience. I pretty much had to lie down in a dark room afterwards to recover.

    The pastor Joel Osteen preaches with his wife Victoria. They have an internet TV  channel here.

  • Yasukuni shrine on a sunny spring day

    Posted: April 26, 2010, 6:11 pm by tony

    Yasukuni Shrine in the center of Tokyo is dedicated to Japan’s war dead.

    On this spring day the shrine museum was hosting a exhibition on the kamikaze pilots of WW2.

  • Festival fever

    Posted: April 22, 2010, 5:47 pm by tony

    More from the festival.

    These were taken right outside the station just as the portable shrine got moving.

    The trick with these is to focus while walking backwards and avoiding the waving arms of drunken revelers . . .


  • Shiny Happy People

    Posted: April 20, 2010, 5:05 pm by tony

    Beautiful day, gorgeous light, happy people – what more do you need?

    A few portraits from our local spring festival last weekend. It’s not the first time I have shot the festival, though I took a different approach this time.

    D700 + 50mm lens. All were taken close to maximum aperture, usually within a few seconds of asking if the subject minded being photographed. I reduced saturation and added some film grain in Adobe Lightroom.

    (Another of our local festivals. It’s held every two years, so perhaps I’ll shoot it again this Autumn?)

    Ukimafunado Festival 2008 from Tony McNicol on Vimeo.

  • Blooming Japan

    Posted: April 14, 2010, 6:04 pm by tony

    You know, despite living in Japan for 10 years now, I have never managed to get round to photographing cherry blossom (although I did write about it.)

    This year I met the challenge head on with a trip to hanami wonderland, Ueno Park. But I have to say that I wasn’t quite ready for the incredible raucousness of the occasion. Maybe it had something to do with the very wintery spring we’ve had this year.

    In fact, the afternoon was about the only hanami-friendly spell of good weather this year. It worked out well for me though, because I was there to shoot the people rather than the petals. I was also trying out a new lens. Great piece of glass and much sharper than I was expecting. Looking forward more wide-angle shoots.

    Check out my Photoshelter cherry blossom gallery for all the shots. I’m also on Flickr now. (Please become my Flickr friend, or however that goes – still working that one out)

    By the way, the last pic is from my local park, a much more pleasant hanami experience than Ueno I thought.


    Cherry blossom viewing, Mar 2010 – Images by Tony McNicol